My Camino de Santiago de Compestela Journey

13th October Happy 30th birthday Nik. Barcelona and I HAVE A PASSPORT Yipeeee!

2010-10-14T06:56:00.000+13:00

As you can see i got my passport today. The photo certainly won't win NZTM but I don't care - even if I am stuck with it for the next 5 years.

Am so grateful that London Department of Internal Affairs can meet their SLAs and I indeed received the passport within 3 working days. Well done.

I have spent the day at my PC resceduling and uncancelling my plns that were interrupted by the passport dilemna. When you think about it all I have done really is miss Madrid which i am sad about cos it is supposed to be awesome but maybe I can go there after Rome.

i have booked a trip with Kumuku (thanks Sara) that takes in 8 countries (most of which were on my list to visit) in 21 days and is for people aged 18 - 55 so i hope that there will be some new friends there. The lady who I have been in touch with is fantastic. she has really helped me and has been understanding about my lack of passport and associated lack of ability to commit. I have emailed her today to confirm and hopefully it is full steam ahead from here.
The itinerary is attached at the end of this post if you want to see the detail of what i will be doing.

So my revised plans are:
15th October - Porto in Portugal
17th October - Lisbon (cos i have a flight aleready booked to Rome
18th October - Rome - I will return here as part of the tour but I am too cheap to throw away 66 Euros flight already booked and accommodation
22nd October to 30thish October - Unplanned
30ish October - London to see my mate Paul and hopefully crash at his house.
5th November - tour
25th November - tour ends
Might go to Brussels or just make my way to Munich where i am scheduled to fly home on 6th December. i am trying to organise to bring this forward by about a week cos I suspect I will be ready to come home by then.

I have just posted a lot of photos to Facebook. Have a look if you want. I will put some here at some stage soon but it takes so long to upload them.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=314292&id=764657575&saved#!/

Anyway have had fun in Barcelona. i wnet to visit Sagrada Familia, a cathedral started by Gaudi and still in the process of being finished. ETA is 2070 so i doubt i will see it in its full glory. An aussie i met on the metro was absolutely sure he was going to see it so I hope he does.
I spent the day with Deb (the guide from the Camino) yesterday and we wandered around the Gotic area which was really interesting. cos Deb is a guide she was able to tell me alot about the places we were seeing.
I had kunch (at 3pm) with her and Pablo and then wandered off insearch of a movie theatre which plays movies with the original sound track i.e. not dubbed in Spanish. i managed to see a Woody Allen movie about a Tall Dark Stranger which was ok. Won't rush out and get it again but am pleased that I was able to track the place down. Between that and managing the underground train system and the metro my navigational prowess has improved a million fold. The Amazing Race look out. I'm getting ready.

Tomorrow (last day) I am going to go and see Barcelona Cathedral - i am going through withdrawal as i haven't seen a cathedral in a while - and am going to go for a tour of the Palau de la Musica. Deb and i had coffee there yesterday and the building is gorgeous. A tour will be amazing I hope. As well as that i'll go to Sta Maria del Mar which is a simple but beautiful church which has a museum attached that allows you to have a look at Roman roads etc that are still in existence. I'll finish my stay in Barcelona with dinner with Deb and Pablo. Won't be a late night though cos my flight to Port leaves at 8am on the 15th.

Despite the hate that i felt toward Barcelona and being here on my first day I must say that my opinion has changed a lot. It is a beautiful city - if you avoid the crowd and there are a lot of them. It didn't help that yesterday was a public holiday and every man and his dog seemed to be visiting. i will be sad to leave Barcelona and totally recommend it as a place to visit - be very careful with your belongings though. i have heard some horror stories. The worst being fro a Welsh guy I met at the hotel here who said that he went out drinking on the Rambles and met some guys at 2am who invited him to go drinking with them. Seemed nice enough so he went. He remembers having a drink and then waking up in a bus stop with his trousers cut (and his leg) where they had removed his wallet. Her didn't lose a lot cos most of his valuables were at the hotel but it was scary all the same. i am amazed he came back again this year.

Well that's it for now. am off to have dinner. Will post again from Portugal.

Yay i have my passport back :-) :-) :-)

ITINERARY FOR 21 DAY TOUR OF EUROPE
Day 1: London To Paris. We will check in for the 2.5 hour high-speed train journey to Paris Gare du Nord. Enjoy the many comforts the Eurostar has to offer as we travel south from London, through and via the Kent countryside into the thirty-one mile Channel tunnel and into France (don’t forget to move your clocks ahead one hour!).The journey under the English Channel only lasts 20 minutes. The Eurostar offers a buffet car and on certain departures a snack cart. Both of these accept British and Euro currencies. On arrival at Paris Gare du Nord we will be met by coach and transferred to our hotel. Those who are joining the tour in Paris, please meet in the lobby at 15:00 pm. Please ensure you have your insurance information with you. The afternoon will either be free time or there will be an orientation coach tour of Paris.

If the orientation tour doesn’t take place on day 1 it will take place on day 2.

In the evening there will be a dinner in a local restaurant. This is followed by an hour long cruise along the Seine (included in your tour price)

Day 2: Paris. Orientation Tour/Free Day. On our coach orientation tour we will see the infamous Left Bank of the River Seine, which borders Montparnasse and is known to be one of Paris’s most romantic districts - a Paris of another era. The Notre Dame cathedral, Musee d’Orsay, the Louvre, Place de la Concorde (where the original guillotine stood during the French revolution), the Champs Elysee, the Arc di Triomphe and the Eglise du Dome (where Napoleon is buried), also offer incredible photo opportunities, for which we will stop along the way so you can start filling up those memory cards.Now that you are familiar with the city, and have decided what you would like to see, you will free time to explore Paris. Perhaps you could visit the Eiffel tower or see the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo at the world’s most famous art gallery - the Louvre or shop ‘til you drop, taste the local cuisine in the Latin Quarter, head up to the heights of Montmartre’s artist quarter… the list is endless!

Dinner is not included tonight so you can sit down to a traditional French meal or just grab a baguette on the go! This evening, if possible, your guide may be able to offer you the chance to see the energetic Can-Can at an ooh-la-la French Cabaret show!

Day 3: Paris To Interlaken. We depart the hotel early in the morning and drive through the French countryside, stopping at services to refuel both the coach and ourselves, eventually arriving at the Swiss border mid afternoon. Customs here may take some time as we are crossing into Swiss territory, out of the European Union; therefore, there is a chance you will have your passport checked. We advise, that you should keep your passport on you at all times. After about a twenty-minute drive to the first services in Switzerland, you will be able to change money to Swiss francs. We will then drive through the breathtaking mountain scenery to the beautiful town of Interlaken. On arrival you will have time to visit the various Swiss souvenir and fine watch shops. Whether you want a watch for life, or just something fun and colourful, there is sure to be a timepiece for you. You might want to pre order some famous Swiss army knives and leave them to have your and your loved ones names engraved on them. Regardless, you can get your tax back on your purchases if you spend over a specified amount. We recommend taking the time to explore this quaint little town, with it’s rushing rivers and hand hewn, wooden houses, before having a traditional Swiss dinner with the group.

Day 4: Interlaken - Coach Free Day. Picturesque landscapes in the stunning Swiss mountains provide a backdrop to various adventure pursuits today. For a full day trip we recommend you enjoy an exciting ride aboard Europe’s oldest cog railway, the world’s highest, to the peak of the Jungfrau. Soaring to 3454 metres (11,333 feet) snow, ice and breathtaking scenery is guaranteed! This inimitable train journey begins in Interlaken, and meanders upwards through small Swiss villages that are dotted along the train tracks, passing cows with giant bells and flower filled meadows. The climax of this excursion is the journey through the inside of the Eiger mountain from Kleine Sheidigg to the Jungfraujoch. Once you reach the purpose built visitor center perched on the top of the Swiss alps, you can ride the space age lift, blasting you up to the highest point of the visitor center. Take in the Sphinx observation terrace and later walk through the impressive Ice Palace (caves that run right through the center of a glacier). Throw a snowball and make snow angels on the open plateau of snow and ice. Weather permitting, (seasonal and extra cost) you might be able to ski on a bunny hill ride or toboggan down the glacial slopes from Kleine Sheidegg..

After a few hours of fun, we will board the train back down the valley.On our return, we will stop off at the beautiful town of Lauterbrunnen or weather permitting, return to Interlaken and take part in a tandem paraglide/hang glide with an experienced pilot. You can even get the photos to prove you did it!

Alternatively, you can spend your day hiking, biking or rafting. If it all sounds like too much hard work then simply relax in the scenic countryside around Interlaken and visit the crystal clear lakes.

Dinner is not included this evening.

Day 5: Interlaken To Florence/Prato. Depending on whether we are travelling during high or low season will determine our destination tonight. Your tour leader will confirm this when your tour commences. Some tours will be staying in the town of Prato, which is approximately 20km from Florence. Other tours will be staying on the outskirts of Florence.

Dinner will either be included this evening or tomorrow evening depending on hotel location..

Day 6: Day out in Florence. Today we will start by driving up to the Piazzale Michelangelo where you will get an astonishing panoramic view over the scenic city of Florence. Your Tour leader will then walk you down the hill into the center of Florence where we will meet a local guide for a walking tour. This is included in your tour cost and is a good chance to learn some local history. The local guide will take you to the Piazza della Signoria - which is an outdoor sculpture gallery, which includes a replica of Michelangelo's statue of David. They will then lead you down to the famous Ponte Vechio bridge and escort you up through the main streets to see the Duomo Cathedral The tour will end at Leonardo's Leather Works, a reputable leather workshop where you will receive a demonstration of how to pick quality leather from poor imitations - don't say that we didn't warn you! There are lots of leatherworks and jewellers shops, the latter especially on the Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge). It is always important to ensure that what you buy is genuine, as this cannot always be guaranteed when shopping in the market. After the leather demonstration we have free time to go and see the original David at Galleria dell Academia and the Uffizi Gallery, or simply to meander around the streets and piazzas of Florence. Dinner is not included tonight. Your Tour leader will confirm the time and location of the after-dinner coach pickup and we will then return to our hotel.

NOTE: Visiting Michelangelo’s Statue of David at the Accademia: due to an increase in visitor numbers, we recommend that all passengers wishing to visit the statue pre-book tickets at least one month in advance. Passengers also wishing to visit the Uffizi Gallery should pre book tickets to avoid long queues . During off season it is possible to walk in and get tickets. Tickets to both can be booked online at: www.weekendafirenze.com. As a guideline, the morning's activities will finish at approx noon. Any tickets should therefore be booked after 1.00pm and no later than 4.30pm. To see both, book a ticket for the Uffizi for around 3.00pm and the Academia for around 1.00pm. The estimated time of departure from Florence back to the hotel is 6.30pm.

NOTE: Kumuka cannot be liable for any necessary changes to the tour schedule that may in turn affect your museum reservations.

Day 7: Florence to Rome. We start the day with a visit beautiful town of Orvieto, a charming medieval town perched on the hilltop. To visit the town you will need to take the funicular up from the coach park (cost approx 2 € return). Following lunch we depart for Rome, where we will spend the next three nights. After you have checked into the hotel, we will have a group meal with some new additions to the group, after which the evening is yours. Florence to Rome.

NOTE: For Xmas 2010 Tour please be aware that there may be an itinerary change with all planned activities going ahead but not necessarily in the order as stated in the itinerary due to circumstances beyond Kumuka's control.

Day 8: Rome - Coach Free Day. Today is a free morning for you to explore the fabulous sights of this Eternal City. You will need to use public transport to get into the city and your tour leader will provide you with information on using the metro system. You may wish to try and avoid the crowds and head up to the Colosseum before the crowds arrive. We will meet our local guide by the Colosseum for a walking tour (headsets cost 2 €), the ideal introduction to some of the oldest sights in Rome. Our local guide has extensive local knowledge and will share with you many fascinating insights to Rome's ancient history! The walking tour will last approximately an hour and a half and will include a stroll past the impressive Vittorio Emmanuel Monument.

After this, your afternoon is free to visit Piazza Navona, Vatican City and the Sistine Chapel where Michelangelo spent 4 years painting the magnificent frescos that have graced the walls and ceilings of the Pope’s private chapel since 1512. You may also like to visit St Peter’s Basilica, the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps.

Kumuka wishes to inform their clients that Men visiting Vatican City and St Peter's Square must wear t-shirts and shirts with sleeves and long trousers, whilst Women should have their shoulders covered and wear a skirt that falls below the knee, this dress code is strictly enforced.

Dinner is not included tonight so you will have plenty of time to continue exploring and perhaps try some traditional Roman gnocchi!

Day 9: Rome - Coach Free Day. Today there will be an optional day trip to Pompeii on a hired coach (this is not an included activity). Otherwise, today is another free day to continue your exploration of fascinating Rome. Come and experience Roman Pompeii., one of the only sites of it's type in the world. Whereas most ancient ruined cities were abandoned, Pompeii was frozen in time at the height of it's decadence and power. This was due to nearby Mount Vesuvius erupting and burying the city and it's inhabitants under volcanic ash. You will see a palatial villa, a fast food, counter, shops, chariot grooves in the road and the plaster casts of people as they took their last dying breath. Because it is a coach free day we charter an Italian coach and driver who takes us just south of Naples. Once there you will have a 2 hour guided tour with a local guide, as well as time for lunch and limoncello tasting.

Transport, admission and guide 65 € per person.

Dinner is not included tonight, so why not tantalise your taste buds with local delicacies.

Day 10: Rome To Venice. We will be departing early for the drive to Venice. Depending on traffic, we should arrive early evening in a suburb of Venice called Mestre, on the main land. As Venice is an island with tiny winding streets and canals between buildings, the only form of transport are gondolas and canal boats. It is, therefore, still somewhat inaccessible to coaches!

We will stay in Mestre for two nights and use the waterbus to get over to Venice the following day.

Tonight, once the group has freshened up from the journey we will meet up and go for dinner.

Day 11: Venice. Today we will be departing the hotel at a modest time to make our way into the historical center of Venice by boat. This is an exhilarating journey back in time. We disembark near St. Mark’s Square where we will see the amazing St Mark’s Basilica. Venice is full of quaint shops, restaurants and thousands of pigeons! It is also famous for its glass blowing; your tour leader will organise a demonstration of this traditional Venetian craft for you. You can also take an optional ride on one of Venice’s famous gondolas with one of the Romeos of the waterways! (€25 per person). You will have the afternoon free to spend time in the Doge’s Palace, cross the famed Bridge of Sighs, visit the beach on the Lido, catch a water bus along the Grand Canal, visit one of Venice’s 200 churches, wander around the Rialto bridge and markets or take a break in one of the many tiny street side bars and cafes

Dinner is not included this evening but Venice is filled with lots of cafes and restaurants in charming locations. By evening, St Mark’s Square comes alive with orchestras and people waltzing on the pavements.

Day 12: Venice to Vienna. Today is a chance to relax and perhaps catch up on some post card writing during the drive to Vienna. After checking into our hotel and allowing time to freshen up, there will be a short orientation tour of the main sites by coach. This will take place en route to a traditional Austrian dinner with some new members of the group.

Day 13: Vienna - Coach Free Day. Today is free to explore Vienna. Keep some small change handy to pay for the cheap buses or trains. Vienna is renowned as the city of music, and your tour leader can organise tickets to a Mozart and Strauss concert if you wish. You can visit the Hofburg Imperial Palace, Schonbrunn Summer Palace and St. Stephens Cathedral among many other sites. Dinner is not included this evening.

Day 14: Vienna To Prague. We depart the hotel early to reach the Czech Republic border. Once we have cleared the Czech border, it is approximately a 5 hour drive to Prague. We will go straight to the hotel and check in.

Dependent on time of our arrival, we will either head straight into town using public transport, for an orientation walking tour and dinner, or if we arrive late we will have dinner in the hotel.

Day 15: Prague - Coach Free Day. If we arrived late yesterday, your tour leader will take you into the centre of Prague by public transport and take you on an orientation walking tour. The tour includes Wenceslas Square, the Estates Theatre (Mozart’s Theatre), the Old Town (including the unique Astronomical Clock) and the famous Charles Bridge. Otherwise, if we completed the tour upon yesterdays arrival, you have today completely free to explore Prague.

Check out some of the many Bohemian Crystal shops, or stroll across the Charles Bridge and up Mala Strana (‘the little street’) to Hradcany castle. With its huge student population and live music scene, Prague’s a perfect place to enjoy a few cheap beers.

Dinner is not included this evening. If you have been “saving” yourself for a big night, Prague is the place to do it! There is definitely an abundance of bars and clubs here. Or you might want to check out the famous puppet shows or one of the many live music venues that Prague has to offer.

Day 16: Prague To Berlin. Leaving the Spires of Prague behind us, we will journey through some small Czech towns, which will take you back in time and enjoy a pleasant drive through former East Germany. In the early afternoon we will discover Berlin with a local guide on board our coach. We will see both the former East and West sections of the city, including the Brandenburg Gate, the rebuilt Reichstag (home of German Parliament), Museum Island, Check Point Charlie and the modern Potsdamer Platz.

Tonight dinner is included.

Day 17: Berlin - Coach Free Day. Today is yours to explore, why not visit some of Berlin’s famous museums including Check Point Charlie, Story of Berlin or the Topography of Terror. There’s Museum Island with everything from the original bust of Nefertiti (regarded as the most beautiful woman in the world), to amazing treasures and artwork from ancient times. For a great view of Berlin we recommend heading to Alexanderplatz and taking the lift to the top of the Fernsehturm (TV) tower.

In the evening, why not make your way to Hackersher market and check out the interesting array of cafes, bars and restaurants where you can meet locals and other travellers.

Dinner is not included this evening

Day 18: Berlin - Coach Free Day. Due to European driving laws restricting our coach usage for 3 nights we have included an extra day in Berlin so that you can take advantage of the many attractions that this city, the energetic and hectic heart of modern Germany, has to offer. Visit the dynamic Sony Centre, or the smartest department store in Berlin, the KaDeWe, and marvel at the array of food in the over the top food hall. If that’s not enough, there is a huge selection of department stores, shoe shops, and multi level book and music stores to accommodate all tastes and needs. Wander through the world renowned Berlin Zoo or walk along the curved walkway built inside the glass dome of the Reichtstadt building and marvel in the amazing architecture and the masses of building projects going on in the area.

Dinner tonight is not included.

Day 19: Berlin to Amsterdam. We will depart early for a long driving day to Amsterdam. Upon arriving in Amsterdam, we will check into the hotel before heading into the city for a brief orientation tour.

Dinner is not included this evening, therefore your tour leader will point you in the direction of an assortment of restaurants to accommodate every palate. Once your appetite is satisfied, you will be offered the chance to take in some of Amsterdam’s more unusual forms of entertainment, or discover the canal area and explore the nocturnal city sights.

Day 20: Amsterdam - Coach Free Day. Today you have the day free to explore Amsterdam. You can visit Anne Frank’s house, Dam Square, the Red Light District, the Heineken Brewery Museum or the many museums in Museum Plein including the Rijksmuseum and the Vincent Van Gogh museum. Take in the highlights by cruising the canals, or do as the locals do and hire a bike. If you want an alternative to the infamous Red Light District, try the area known as the Leidseplein. Here you will find cafes, restaurants, shops and cinemas that play films in English. Public transport is available all night.

Tonight we will enjoy our final group meal of the tour. Subject to numbers, this will be followed by an optional boat cruise along the canals of Amsterdam, and our last outing together as a group. Bring your cameras and prepare to sing, dance and let your hair down as we cruise the main waterways of this fabulous city.

€30 per person includes an open bar and music.

Day 21: Amsterdam To Paris/London. We depart the hotel for the last drive of the tour. We drive through Belgium, before crossing back into France. Once we arrive in Paris we will drive directly to Gare du Nord. Dinner is not included this evening as the tour ends upon arrival at Gare du Nord at approximately 4.30pm. If you are making your own travel arrangements from this point onward, please be advised that we cannot guarantee early arrivals and leave plenty of time in your travel schedule accordingly.

Post Camino Report 10/10/10 - what a fantastic date!

2010-10-10T20:44:00.002+13:00

The Camino was awesome. As was walking on my own and walking the finisterre Camino. Only problem was that we walked 2 out of 3 days in torrential rain for 8.5+ hours each day. No worries for me cos I loved it but my passport got soaked and disintegrated to the point where i can't use it.

Cape Finisterre. The end of the world as it once was known.

Zero kilometers to go. Yipeeeeee but also really sad it is over.

Several discussions with the Consulate in Spain, the Embassy in Madrid and the NZ Embassy in London have resulted in me sending an application for a new passport to London (70 Euros the courier cost) with an affadavid signed by me and witnessed by the Spanish Consul to say that I was me and although i had tried to get my photographs witnessed I was unable to do so. Hopefully it is on its way to London and i will be in receipt of a new passport by Thursday. Consequently my trip has been put on hold and I am stuck in Barcelona until i get a passport. I had to send my one to London so i am also passport-less so can't go anywhere or do anything outside of Barcelona. I could try a train or a bus but have decided to stay put until I know i won't be stranded and can get home.

Ah poor me. I could however think of worse countries that I could be stranded in. i have decided to treat myself to a better class of hotel for the next 4 nights (this one will have a bathroom in the room and I won't have to share) to help ease the stress.

I spent yesterday on one of the bus Turistes travelling around Barcelona which was fabulous. You can get on or off the bus where you feel like and go and see the attractions that interest you. I of course opted for the free - or less expensive ones - was goiong to see the Sagrada Familia but the queues were ridiculous so i'll go back when it isn't so busy.

Went to Park Guell which is Gaudi's work has been integrated into nature - his main source of inspiration.

I also went to Tramvia Blau - Tibidabo which consisted of a tram (100 years old) ride to the funicular which took me to the highest point in Collserola massif (Tibidabo) which looks out over Barcelona. Impressive. They have combined the really old with a theme park, science museum, observatory flooded forest etc. not sure that the theme park is the best but they have incorporated it so that is isn't too obtrusive to the environment. i didn't go to the theme park area cos there were far too many children for my liking.

Today I move out of the box that i am currently living in to a nicer hotel with its own bathroom and a free mini bar. A bit of decadence is just what I need I think.

Over the last few days i have really toyed with the idea of coming home early (assuming i get a new passport) and it isn't just cos of the whole passport issue. It is lovely to be here but the travelling on my own is very lonely. There is noone to share things with and noone totalk to. Things might be a bit different when I am in a different place and not stuck in a box like room that i am sure is smaller than a prison cell. I do have a key to my cell though. :-)

3rd October 2010 Day 1 of the walk to Finisterre. 25kms

2010-10-04T06:05:00.000+13:00

Today we set off on the Camino Finisterre in the pouring torrential Galician rain. We got as far as the cathedral when we went into the Parador 5 star hotel for a cuppa while we waited for the rain to ease off. The Parador was full of american tourists as there was a tour and they were not impressed to see us straggle in all wet and bedraggled. We had a break and the rain didn't seem to be letting up so we decided to start walking anyway. Funnily enough we hadn't gone too far before we were all soaked.

The rain kept coming down in buckets most of the way here. We stopped for lunch after about 7kms and it was a relief to take off the wet coats and back packs but we also knew that they were going to have to go back on soon enough so it was a brief relief.

86 km to go to Finisterre. Was quite dry here.

After lunch we walked a further 15 ks until we got to the place we are staying, Lostados. we are now relaxing in front of the fireplace surrounded by coats, boots and other items of clothing that we are trying to get dry.

02/10/10 Santiago de Compestela

2010-10-02T20:41:00.000+13:00

I have arrived. In fact I arrived yesterday at about midday. It was totally different from the last time I arrived here with the group. There were no where near the amount of people in the streets and rather than sunshine it was drizzling heavily. I had very sore feet which I was later to find out was caused by three huge blisters - one on my heel, one under the little toe and one on the side of my big toe - of the foot that I had traded the othotic for the insert. I was wearing compeed on all spots as well so go figure.

18 km to go

I arrived at about 11.40 so decided to go to the Pilgrim's mass but to do this without having to queue for ages I needed get my Compestela or Pilgrims Certificate. I found the Pilgrims Office and was so totally daunted by the queue that i decided to forego mass and go to the hotel to get dry which I must say was the best shower on the trip so far. I'd really earned it. 19+ kms in 3 hours and many of these kilometers were up long huge hills .

After having lunch with Garry I decided to once more queue for my Compestela which took 2 hours. Shows how many Pilgrims are completing the Camino these days. The lady at the office said that in August there were more than 2500 per day. The official stats say that the numbers completing the Camino are up 66% this year which I can believe. While i was waiting in the queue I met some women from Finland (Lapland) and Helena invited to me visit her if I get there which was really nice. At this stage I am not sure if I will last the three months as I am fastly running out of the little money i had and i am getting quite lonely. It is no fun having dinner on your own every night. (and it has only been 4 nights for me so far - how sad am I?) I really couldn't face it last night so I got some bread and cheese and a couple of beers from the local bakery and came back to my room and watched a movie. Thank goodness I had copied a few onto this PC.

My name is written in Latin.

I managed to fall asleep watching the movie (as i do) and woke at 8.30 this am. I really must have needed the sleep cos I have not slept liike that since i first arrived in Spain. Today I will go to the Pilgrim's mass at midday and will just walk around and enjoy Santiago as we leave for Finnisterre tomorrow morning. I am meeting Garry and Ulricke for dinner tonight so we will no doubt organise ourselves for then. I also hope to Skype Stef and Hayley and am so looking forward to seeing htem - if only via a computer link.

One of the many nice forests I walked along this final leg.

Steps leading to Santiago. Last year a woman fell down these and broke both ankles.

Shells to guide us into town.

And last but not least ..............................

The little to blister although the photo doesn't do it justice

My biggest blister. All squishy and soft. Hope it doesn't make finnisterre too painful.

O Pino 30th September 2010

2010-10-01T18:23:00.000+13:00

This is the trolley that the lady was wheeling behind her in an earlier photo. They have to carry it up the hills.

The milestone just after Azura.

It is 6.33 am on the 1st of October and yet another annoying person has woken me up being loud and obnoxious when decent people should be sleeping. S/he also kept their TV blaring until the wee small hours this morning. That coupled with a phone call from the Auckland house property manager to say that the purchaser's lawyer was insiting on a shower head being fixed before settlement and a text from my lawyer to say that the house sale has settled (Whewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww. It is all over with the Auckland place) I didn't get a lot of sleep. Still i am awake hacking now so everyone else in the place will be cursing me.

Thanks Pammie and Stef for your posts, It is fantastic to keep in touch with home. i do miss you all very much and i really think that i will come home sooner that expected. This is a wonderful life but it does get lonely and although I meet fantastic people (when they can speak English and there aren't that many around really) i would rather spend time with thie ones that i know and love. Will see how i feel when in Rome. That is the last formal planned place so will reassess when i get there. I think that my last day in rome is the 22nd of October so that gives me 3 weeks still to go.

The walk yesterday was really good. Gentle undulating landscape and very beautiful. Stef I still had the problem with the hankys and the alternating method of drying them worked extremely well. When I get home I'll gross you out more with the full details (Not. Wouldn't do that to you)

I talked to dutch man as we were walking and he was saying he has emphasima and that he had smoked more cigarettes while walking the Camino than he'd walked kilometers. He had started at St Jean (800+ kms). i couldn't believe that anyone could be so stupid. I also spoke with a man from Nuremberg in Germany ahd he had walked the Camino from Nuremburg. 3000+ kms over a period of 8 years. He is walking the last leg today and is pleased to be finishing as he said that the number of pilgrims has grown so much that it is far too busy for him. i can umderstand what he means cos there are times when you feel as though you are walking on your own and you turn a corner and meet a dozen people. (That bloody TV has gone back on grrrrrrrr)

I also met a Camino Perro. He is a 3 year old German Shepard who is walking with his owner and started at the 100km mark. He will be walking the whole way. I have seen about 5 dogs, some of which are carrying saddle bags. It is so cute.

i got here around midday and was able to update blogs, check out life in NZ via stuff and generally take it easy. Was nice to be able to read a book and chill out with a couple of beers.

I leave today to walk into Santiago de Compestela. 19 kms and had orignally intended arriving in time for the Pilgrims Mass at midday. I may not do that now as I have a couple of days in Santiago before we go to Finnisterre so might go tomorrow. I will definitely get my compestela though as I will have walked the required distance and collected the stamps to qualify for it. That is if i can find the Pilgrim's Office.

Eeek have just discovered that my knee has leaked all over the bed and there are all these bloody marks on the clean white sheets. Oh well it could have been worse. (In case I hadn't written about it I had a fall walking down one of the rocky paths and took a hole out of my knee. I was looking behind me to make sure htat the rest of the group weren't being left too far behind cos Garry was putting on the pace, when my feet went out from under me and whamo I was on the ground felling really stupid. My knee had a square of skin hanging from one edge and was bleeding profusely. I'd been gargling Asprin for my sore throat and my blood was thinner so it was difficult to stop the bleeding. Garry taped up the knee and I looked like someone who had just come off a rugby field. I was able to clean and dress it properly (after cutting the flap of skin off - i was so brave) when we got back to the hotel and Carrie had antibiotic cream so it was fine. Now it is healing nicely and I forget about it more often than not remembering that it is there whenever I kneel on something and OUCH!!!!)

The one orthotic, one shoe insert solution is working well with my sore foot. It is still sore but manageable. I think that it is a case of the foot adjusting to the different way it is being held. I do have the beginnings of a shin splint on the other leg but think that may be due to the vast hills I have been climbing and descending. The left foot has developed 3 blisters as well - i was determined not to let this happen but the best laid plans of mice and men ............ Thank god for compeed as i have dressed the blisters withi this and so far so good. The blisters are due to the new ridges of the inner sole. The foot was used to the orthotic and is now getting used to the inner sole. i am so glad that i brought an extra pair of shoes with me as i had to throw my oroignal ones away in Burgos. The insides of them pulled out and I couldn't wear them comfortably after that. It was like saying good bye to an old friend when i left them behind. I took heaps of photos though. :-)

My beloved shoes :-(

19 Kilometers to go.

Lestado to Azura 29th September 2010

2010-09-30T05:30:00.002+13:00

The day of national strike in Spain. We did wonder if the bags would be delivered to the hotel and organised and I am happy to report that - yes they were.

I started this morning at 8am when I met up with Ulrick for breakfast. It was a lovely breakfast and I am so please that my requests for Tea con leche fria are understood and I am finally able to get a hot cup of tea with COLD milk. I do appreciate this fact at the start of each day.

Today was hard going. I walked the 33 km ok and as is the case with me I didn't stop - except for when I was about 3 km out of Azura when I just had to have a cuppa. Again a very good Tea con leche fria. Prior to that i had got a can of mas fria coca Cola light and drank that as I walked along, stopped at a frutas place and got 1 apple, 1 banana, 2 mandarins, 1 plum and one nectarine for 1 euro - I couldn't believe it (one of those alone would have cost $2 in NZ) and ate these as I walked along. The challenges for the day included wha tI think might be a sinus infection. I was (and this is gross if you want to skip to the next paragraph) walking along and blowing my nose and it was just bloody mucus. Copious amouts of bloody mucus. I was alternating hankeys. One to use and the other to be attached to my pack to dry out as I walked. Gross extremus. It settled down after a while and was replaced with the sore ankle or foot.

Before I came away I'd meant to go to my foot doctor to get my orthotics check. Procrastination being my middle name meant that as usual I did nothing and I am now paying for my laziness. My 'good' foot is not my problem foot cos I think I have been walking with it at an abnormal angle due to the othotics. Today I made an executive decision to walk with one orthotic and one (the foot that was troubling me) normal shoe insert. For most of the day this wIorked ok but over the final 10 k it got progressively worse. I now have a quite swollen ankle and it is noticably sore when I walk. I have dosed it with Voltaren and taken voltaren orally so here's hoping all will be well tomorrow.

I got to Azura after approx 6 hours walking which I was pleased with. Pleased more so cos i was just ahead of the rain. I hate walking with raincoats or ponchos so this was a bonus for me to avoid the rain. After a bit of a pantomine checking in - I didn't know what to say and they didn't expect a non spanish speaking gal from NZ - i was able to have a shower and relax. I just got into the shower, clotes and all and washed my clothes and I washed myself. i only hope that they will dry ok as I really don't want to have to put wet clothes in a plastic bag for a day. Still what will be will be.

This amazing lady was pulling a trolley. Unfortunately they didn't speak English so I was unable to hear her story.

I have now been in the local bar where they have free wifi so can catch up on the emails etc. While I was here I joined a young couple who had also been walking the Camino but were waiting for his sister to come from Santiago to take them back to stay with her. His knee had blown out and his Camino days were over for the time being. He works as an Auxiliary Nurse int eh Spanish Army and she is a student of Tourism. They come from Vigo and strongly recommended that I go there cos they say it is the most beautiful place in Spain. I think I might try and get there if I can manage it. I spent a wonderful 2 hours talking to them and they were so amazing. They loved having the chance to talk English and I was able to try out my Spanish. I have an email address for Lorena so will definitely keep in touch with them. They heard me hacking (I still have the cough as well) so gave me all these sachets of drugs (ibuprofeno 600 mg) that if I take one tonight and one in the morning is sure to get me ok. How amazing is that? I have met so many fantastic people on this trip. i am blessed with the first hand experience of knowing that there are some very wonderful people in this world (including my friends and family of course)

Well taht aout catches me up with the events of the day. If you read this and there are no photos check back again as i will add photos to illustrate sections of the blog. i am only sad that I didn't bring my camera with me to the bar so was unable to take a photo of Lorena, her husband and her husband's sister who came to pick them up.

I have a 19 km walk planned tomorrow so will take it easy and enjoy the trip. I am headed for O Pino and the forecaast is for the rain to have passed so it should be a good day.

Portomarin to Lestedo. Tuesday 28th September. Day 1 of last 100 km walk.

2010-09-30T04:55:00.004+13:00

Today I started in Portomarin and walked the 19 ks to Lestedo. I was picked up by taxi and driven to the start of the Camino Portomarin. It was gorgeous but cold cos the hills were totally shrouded in mist and it was so quiet and still. Crossing the bridge had a real eerie feeling to it.

After the bridge came the forest and a gentle climb for a few kilometers.

I walked at a steady pace and was surprised at how good I was feeling. I am however suffering from the orthotic that has never felt right but I have been too lazy to get fixed. Just goes to show that it never pays to procrastinate. If I’d done something about it when it first became a problem I wouldn’t be having this trouble. It is quite uncomfortable walking as my foot is wedged into a weird position. It is almost as though the arch has too much support under it. Initially it was bearable but as the day went on it got decidedly noticeable.

I was lucky enough to walk with a group of horse riders as well. To date I had seen evidence that horses were being ridden along the Camino but no horses. Today I walked with them and it was awesome. I recorded the sound of their hooves as an installment of “sounds of the Camino”. It was lovely.

I walked steadily over the Camino stage and arrived at the hotel Rectoral de Lestedo at about 2.15. I had planned to stop at the restaurant that Garry had recommended but a bus load on teenagers on a field trip had the same idea and it was bedlam. I abandoned the lunch idea and settled for a stamp in my Credential del Peregrino which will prove to the Pilgrims Office in Santiago that I have in fact walked the last 100 k and they should give me the Compestela at the end.

I continued on to where I am staying for the night and I have to say it is absolutely gorgeous. It is rural and the bedroom has stone walls, is tastefully decorated and is generally lovely.

After I dumped my bag I went to the local bar (all eating places are called bars) and had a Ensalada for a change. Most meals have meat and salads are no exception. The only one on offer was a mixred salad which has a huge amount of Tuna in it. I successfully communicated the need for no Tuna so all was good. A young man at the bar decided he was going to talk to me and I made a real hash of trying to tell him I was from NZ. Luckily a girl overheard and helped me out (I really must learn how to say New Zealand in Spanish). That was enough for the guy. He immediately launched into a long and totally un-understandable with my limited Spanish conversation. I know it had something to do with why am I so far away from home, suspect it had something to do with the Soccer cos he kept saying Brazil, and started to get a bit worried when he kept grabbing my hand to see if it had a wedding ring. I probably totally misunderstood the communication but it was fun. As he left he gave me a big smile, muttered something totally incomprehensible and drove away.

After lunch I walked 5 km (return) to see the Vilar de Donas which is an old Knights village and was quite interesting. That was enough walking fo rthe day for me as I knew i had 33 km to face tomorrow. Was a lovely start to the last 100km and the first of my time alone on the Camino. It was so nice being able to walk along and talk to people only if I wanted to. For once my lack of Spanish and any other language than English worked in my favour.

I also met up with Ulrick last night. She is a friend of Bertram and Brigitte - the couple that we are walking to Finnisterre with. Unfortunately (sounds such a inadequate word really ) Bertram's sister died last night and they (Bertram and Brigitte) have had to return to Germany so won't be walking to Finnisterre with us. Apparently she had skin cancer and was in a hospice. Her death was expected but nobody expected it to be so soon. We will still walk to Finnisterre but it will just be Garry, Ulrick and me (unless the funeral happens during this time in which case Ulrick will return to Germany early.

Ulrick is a lovely person. We had dinner together and got to know each other really well. Am not saure if I understand the German humour as she seemed to give me a really hard time about my hardiness and the fact that I can walk in 3.5 hours what it took her 6 hours to complete. I pointed out that I have been training for this and that she should be really proud of what she achieved given that it was day 2 on the Camino for her.

We retired early, at 9.30 as we both had an early start in the morning. I must say here that I have been totally vegetarian since I have been in Spain and am really enjoying it. Ordering Ensalada all the time gets quite boring but the freshness and the variety of the salads are amazing. If I could live like this for the rest of my life I'd be really happy.

Well that is about it for this update. I don't have wifi here so have created a word document and will transfer it to the blog when I can. The plan is to add the appropriate photos into the blog when I get the chance so fingers crossed - I will be able to be true to the plan.

33 kms tomorrow. Daunting but.......
Buenos nochos.

28th September 2010. Day 1 of the last 100kmshe Camino Franco

2010-09-28T19:42:00.002+13:00

Carrie left today and took part of me with her. Never in my life have i met someone and got on so well with as quickly as i have Carrie. It is really difficult to think that just 16 days ago she was just an enail address and someone I knew that i would be sharing with along the Camino. In the past 16 days we have laughed, cried, hurt together, not to mention the joint experiences that come with living in very close proximity with someone. I feel as though I have known Carrie forever and will definitely take her with me on the final part of the Camino. It will be as though she is there talking to me as I walk along. Carrie, I love you and am so privileged and fortunate to have been able to spend the past 2 weeks with you.

I will also miss the rest of the group immensely. My days ambling along the rich forests, rugged tracks and dry mesta were totally enriched by the company i was lucky to enjoy. No matter what the conditions; howling winds, drizzling or even steady rain or brilliant sunshine there was always someone ready to share their lives, experiences and thoughts with me or just give me space to walk on my own with my thoughts and experience the silence of the Camino. For that i thank you all and I will also never forget you. We had a really special group on this camino trip and I am in awe of each and everyone of you.

I have just come back from breakfast and it was the first on my own. It was funny sitting there listening to other groups interact and talk about experiences that htey had onthe Camino. It must be what we all sounded like. A family of sorts - if only for a couple of weeks - with a microcosim of the drama, personal interactions and shared experiences that makes up being a family.

I sit here trying to think what else I can write in this blog today. It is too soon to post photos cos I really need to sort these out. Try and remeber which church belonged to the Knights Templar and which Cathedral we saw where. It has certainly been a time rich in history, the beginnings and progrssions of many churches, cathedrals, monestrys and castles. Each one with its specific history and individualness yet blurs together in the plethora of information amassed to date.

I am feeling nervous and apprehensive about the next 4 days. There really is no reason to as I know that I am fit enough. We finished the day on Saturday after 23kms of walking and I could definitely have done more. Garry has prepared me well to walk this last stretch of the Camino. I have been reading maps, following where I, and the group, needed to go. I am certainly adept at spotting the sometimes very obscure yellow arrows that direct the way. My challenge will be in the fact that I will have to rely on myself to a dregree. There will be noone familiar to rely on as a backstop if I am unsure. I have enough basic Spanish to order a cup of tea with cold milk and enough sign language to make known basic requests but more than that time will tell.

Still despite the norvousness and apprehension I am excited to be starting this part of theCamino. This is how I'd originally intended walking the Camino and one thing I an sure of is that I will be back to complete the whole 800kms. The next few days will be a dress rehearsal for the real thing.

Leon 22/09/10 7.38am

2010-09-22T17:52:00.000+12:00

We are in Leon and are due to leave this morning at 9.15 - just for a change. I am full of a cold and didn't sleep much last night. I think I managed about 4 hours very broken sleep and I feel like cr@p. I wonder how I will get through today as we have a 20ish kms day's walking and I am not going to just sit in the bus. A case of one foot in front of the other methinks. I am probably the 5th person to go down with this cold and the bus has now become the coughing bus.

We had a rest day in Leon yesterday and it was really nice just walking around the city and not having to 'be anywhere'. I know that the rest of the group felt the same as well as everyone was feeling the effect of having to once more put everything back into a suitcase that had shrunk in size since we left home.

I have been quite remiss about keeping this blog uptodate as energy levels have been low and time has been against me. I will definitly put some effort in when I feel better. All I want to do at the moment is curl up on this couch and go to sleep. I think I'd almost even kill for a good night's sleep. This is the thing that has been lacking the most on the trip. I get to bed and it is as though someone switches my mind on and I am unable to relax. All sorts of stuff goes through my mind and I spend the night travelling mentally from one drama to the next. I have tried herbal sleeping pills but they haven't done any good. One thing that I am thankful for is that Carrie doesn't snore. Well not enough to keep me awake. A couple of other people in the group snore so loudly that their room mates are severely sleep deprived. Ironically it is these people (the sleep deprived) who also have bad colds. The other person to have the cold is Garry - the tour guide and that is not good for him as he has to be the life and soul of the party at all times. Luckily he has Deb with him and she is awesome. She is a really caring and considerate person and really goes out of her way to make sure that people are doing ok. Something happened on this trip that impacted me quite badly - I won't go into it here but might tell you about it later - but Deb was really concerned and made a big effort to make sure I was ok saying that it is the welfare of the clients that is important to her over all else.

Anyway it is nearly breakfast

Pamplona to Puente La Reina

2010-09-19T03:03:00.001+12:00

A long day of walking today. We climbed (literally) 5 km to the windmills at Sierra del Perdon and took a well earned rest at the top. We then descended into the village of Uterga for lunch and then on to Peunte la Riena (The Queen's bridge). We stopped and had a look at the 13th century Romanesque church in Eunate which is octaganal and this shape links it to the Knights Templar.

The beginning of the walk to the windmills

The view was magnificent

Sunflowers along the way awaiting harvesting. There were fields and fields of them

The top of the 5km climb. Statues and windmills

Carrie and me at the top. Exhausted but elated

Pepe and Garry at the top. Pepe is our bus driver and speaks only spanish. Garry is our guide.

The Octagonal church at Eunate. The basque name means house of 100 doors and the octagonal shape links it to the Knights Templar.

We have arrived at our destination. The Queen's Bridge which incidentally didn't have anything to do with a queen.

Puente La Riena

Puente la Riena othe side

Pamplona

2010-09-15T16:04:00.003+12:00

Arrived in Pamplona last night and am staying in village called Olive in a castle that has been converted to a hotel. It is amazing. We have french doors that open out to a vineyard and it is so quiet and peaceful.

The team at Roncesvalles in front of the Medieval Cross
It is festival week in Olive and last night we went to the running of the bulls. Not on the scale as Pamplona proper but an experience that I will never forget. It was awful and I was nearly in tears watching all these people taunt and tease these bulls in an attempt to make them angry and charge. The bulls were very obviously terrified and had no idea what was happening to them. I am amazed that this sort of cruelty is allowed. It was sad to see the frenzy that the town had built up. Everyone was screaming and yelling as though it was an All Black game and we were on the verge of scoring a try. Not something I will do again in a hurry.

The walking so far has been good. The first day we were unable to cross the Pyrenees due to bad weather. It was white out conditions and the guides didn't want to put the group in danger. I was bitterly disappointed and although i know that it was the best thing wish that we had gone ahead. Three korean pilgrims went missing that night and search parties were sent out to look for them. Thankfully they eventually arrived safely in a village. I am over my disappointment now though and did enjoy the alternate route that we took.

We spent some time in St Jean Piet de Port and it was lovely. I can't get over the history of these places. We are walking through streets that were built in the 1400s. Incredible.

Today we are walking 20+ ks which for many on the trip will be a challenge. They do have the option however of doing less if they want to. That is the beauty of this trip in that people can push themselves as much as they want to. Garry - the guide is going to Finisterre with friends on the 3rd, 4th & 5th October, a walk of 100+ k and has invited me to come too. I am very tempted although it will mean changing my plans and bookings for Barcelona. I'll see how i feel in a week or so but I had planned togo to Finisterre and it would be awesome to walk there.

Anyway it is 5.50am and I am sitting on the toilet writing this so as to not disturb Carrie. She is sound asleep and I'd hate to wake her before needed. As usual i can't sleep. Must be ALLthe alcohol. Despite my best intentions not to drink copious amounts of wine - very nice wine - is served will all meals - including lunch - and it is getting a bit much. I am almost immune to the effects of drinking which is scary. We were up late (in bed at midnight) last night talking and having a couple of cerveza's (beers) and have to be at breakfast at 8am. I am sure these late nights and early mornings will get to me at some stage. Might have to slow down a bit.

I have taken the vegetarian option mealwise and am eating well. Every meal is 3 courses and so far it is really nice. Excellent desserts. We have 5 vegetarians (including the guides) on the trip which i am told is unheard of.

I am so lucky having Carrie as a room mate. She reminds me so much of several of my friends and we get on so well. After a couple of hours knowing each other we both felt as though we had been friends forever. The usual Aussie/NZ bantering goes on between us and I am sure that it keeps the Canadians entertained.

The group as a whole is really good. We have 4 doctors (5 if you include Garry the guide who has a PHD in Oceanography). A gastroenterologist, a pathilogist, a General Practitioner and one other although I don't know her speciality (they are all women). We also have a couple of history professors from Canadian universities and a couple of teachers/lecturers from universities, a yoga teacher, a woman who spent a lot of time volunteering at the Olympics in Canada, so it is a very intelligent group. Funnily enough I don't feel inferior or stupid at all cos they are all so nice and not big headed at all. They are all really interesting to talk to although I often don't know what they are talking about as it is Canadian politics and who cares about politics at the best of times.

Well this toilet seat is starting to get really uncomfortable so I think I am going to go and try and work out how I am going to get ALL my stuff back into my suitcase. It never fits like it did when I left and I don't have the luxury of putting the excess in my backpack as I have to carry the backpack. Carrie and I had to sit on it yesterday so that we could do the zip up.

Bilao 9th to 11th September 2010

2010-09-12T05:47:00.001+12:00

Well I am here. Phew. I left Wellington at 10am on the 9th and it was the most beautiful day to fly out. The sun was shining and there was no wind to speak of. I was extremely hard sying goodbye to Hayley as it was the last time that I would see family or friends for 3 months. A short time the way that time is flying these days but an eternity when it is family.

After an eventful trip to Auckland in which John Key and his rugby World Cup entourage were on the same flight and I sat next to one of the RWC advisors, and a short 2 hours in Auckland (incidentally it was raining) which were 2 of the longest hours of my life (I just wanted to get this show on the road) we left Auckland bound for Bangkok (13 hours later i might add). The flight was a Thai Airways flight and it was really good. I sat next to a guy who was going to Paris to check out a wedding venue for his 3rd wedding no less - to the same bride. The first was undersea (as they are both divers, the second a more traditional wedding and the Paris wedding for her family and friends.
I managed to watch 5 movies which was no mean feat. Robin Hood was good starring an aging but very slimmed down Russel Crowe and The Karate Kid I really enjoyed. Jared Smith was excellent as was a very serious Jackie Chan. Not a charater type I'd associate with him but he was good.
After Bangkok it was off to Frankfurt (another 12 hours) but this time it was an Lufthansa flight. The plane was a humpy back one and it was full. I sat on the ailse - thank god - and was squashed in with 2 other people. The guy next to me didn't talk - again thank god - and the challenge of the flight was to get some sleep, sitting bolt upright as the room was generously donated to the football fields that business class had to lounge around in and it was almost impossible to stretch out. Even for me. Short me whose knees were brushing against the seat in front. The family in front had to sit with the seats fully reclined and this meant that if i didn't also fully recline my seat I'd be nose to top of the seat the whole way. It was made worse by the extremely annoying german behind me who kept poking me to put my seat up especially at meal times. i understand what he was trying to achieve but he didn't understand that if I'd made my seat go upright I'd get a broken nose. Thankfully the cabin crew enlightened him and he was relatively quiet from then on. Well quiet for a German.
Sadly I was also directly under one of the old TV screens that everyone was expected to watch movies on and it was so bright that I kept waking up. That and the cramp in the neck, the stiff and unyielding body and the urges of the bladder. The attendants kindly turned these off at about 2am so I managed to get an uninterrupted hour or two of sleep.
Pause here cos Carrie has returned and we are going to have a cervaca (beer) to quench the thirst.

Well I am back and getting ready to go to dinner. It was a wonderfully balmy 25 degrees today (after a hot 31 degrees yesterday) so the beer was just what we needed. On the subject of the climate many thanks to all of you who told me it would be winter over here so very cold. I packed for the cold so consequently have about 3 things that I can wear. Yes I am washing my clothes before i go to bed so that I will have something to wear the next day.) The warmth is fantastic though and worth the inconvenience.

So where was I? The flight to Bilbao was uneventful. No Prime Minister's or grumpy germans to contend with. i was on an aisle seat and would have liked to have had a window seat as the views from where i was sitting looked spectacular. Still i did manage to see many snow covered mountains rising above the little cloud cover that there was so I guess they were the range between Germany and Spain - but you all know that i am geographically challenged so they probably weren't.

I arrived in Bilbao at about 12.30 and was able to get teh bus into the city. Good thinking I think cos Carrie got a taxi and it cost her 20 Euros. My bus trip cost me 1.3 Euros. It was made even better when I managed to find the hotel using my 3 words of Spansih that I remember from the course I did 3.5 years ago. I even flagged a taxi down cos i thought I was lost and he told me that the hotel was 200 metres in the direction I was going. Not a bad effort me thinks.

Carrie and I went out to sample the night life last night and managed ok. Couldn't tell what we were eating but were fine in terms of alcohol. Wine is a univeral language methinks.

Slept for 12 hours and woke at 11am this morning when housekeeping came to do the room. I couldn't believe it. Must have needed the rest.

Had a great time investigating Bilbao. It is a fantastic city. Very picturesque and quiet. I went to the Gugenheim Museum today and it is majestic. Was there for 4 hours and if i happent been totally overloaded with infomration I could have stayed longer.

Must go as i am meeting Carrie in the foyer in 15 minutes and I don't think a T shirt and knickers is really the look I am going for. Will post some photos of Bilbao tomorrow or when I get back. It truely is a fabulous city. A mix of modern intertwined with the very old. Just lovely.

Well here we are - on the eve of departure.....

2010-09-08T21:17:00.000+12:00

Wow. How quickly does time pass as you get older. It seems like yesterday that I read the Camino by Shirley McLean and a blink of an eye since I first enquired about walking the Camino myself. Now here I sit trying to make sense of everything that has happened in between and wondering where the time has gone.

Lots of things have happened over the past few weeks.Some have been fantastic and some sadly have not turned out as I would have wanted them to and it has been difficult not to get caught up in the anger and frustration that these events have inspired. It has taken not only a lot of moaning and groaning, ranting and raving to those closest to me but also the earthquake experienced in Christchurch over the weekend to put these into perspective and this has further helped me to realise just how lucky I am to be in a position to partake of the adventure that I am about to embark on.

I am blessed with the opportunity to follow the milky way and walk the path that has been walked by so many before me.

The fact that I am able to earn the $$$$ and take a few months off to follow my dream is not lost on me. I am so fortunate that for whatever reason I am able to leave my life behind me and take 3 months for myself.

I have the most amazing family who give me the support and encouragement to do what I want and feel that I need to do - despite the fact that it is their inheritance that I am squandering.

I have fantastic friends who have encouraged me to do this and who have remained steadfast and maintained their interest and patience as I have not only bored them endlessly with my tales of 'I am going to do this' but regaled them with the dramas that over the past years have made up my life.

To all of you thanks. Without your support and encouragement I would not be doing this.(Here endeth the Oscar speech.) I just want you all to know that I do appreciate your support and I will miss you all but will take a part of you with me on my journey. (Pause here while you vomit)

Feel better?

Ok. Enough of that soppy stuff. I leave here at 7am to catch the 10am flight to Auckland. After that I fly to Bangkok, to Frankfurt, to Bilbao. 28 hours of travelling which is no mean feat. It took 24 hours to get to Egypt when I went there and it was so tiring. I am told that Lufthansa is not the best airline to fly so please Lufthansa prove your detractors wrong and make this the best flying experience I have ever had. An upgrade would be nice :-)

I will be meeting up with Carrie from Western Australia (Perth) who, like me is travelling on her own and we have agreed to share accommodation to reduce the overall costs. (The single supplement is $900 Canadian)

It is Carrie's birthday on the 11th so we will celebrate it in style and also raise a glass in remembrance of nine eleven 2001 and all those who lost their lives. We will be meeting up with our Camino guides Garry and Debs for dinner so it should be a fabulous introduction to Spain, Bilbao and the Camino.

I doubt that I will get much sleep tonight. After all why should tonight be any different to the last several nights. I am just wanting to get this show on the road so that I can relax and enjoy the ride rather than stress about what is to come.

Well that's about it from me. Talk to you from Frankfurt (if they have WiFi) where I have a 6 hour stop over. Keep in touch and keep sending me snippets from home.

But wait there's more ....

2010-08-13T08:36:00.000+12:00

Did you know that even though you spend nearly $1600 NZD on a Eurail pass you still have to pay a reservation fee that is in some cases the equivalent of a regular ticket. The night train from Barcelona to Paris costs approx $200 NZD which coincidentally is the same as the ticket if you didn't have a Eurail pass. Blow that for a joke. Plans change again and I decide not to buy a pass. If and when I get a train it will be at the regular cost as now I have even more options.

After speaking with my friends Toni and Eddy I am open to the possibility of hiring a car and driving. Apparently even though we are on the wrong side of the road it is quite easy. I am quite apprehensive about this but have got my international driver's licence - just in case. I can see myself driving around Italy. Why Italy I have no idea but it just appeals to me.

T & E also told me about the Formule 1 hotel chain. Cheap, sparse but tidy accommodation throughout Europe. I have checked out the website and they are right. Even Trish - the travel consultant agrees so that is an option. Especially if I am driving. It is all coming together now. Train or fly into a country. Hire a car for a week or so and make sure that I can get the train into the 'city' so that I don't have parking issues. Cost will definitely be a factor but as I have said so often lately 'never say never'.

Not that I am counting but there are now 27 days until I go and 15 working days. On one had it will go so quickly but on another the time will drag. I have never been one to wish my life away but I think that this is slightly different.

These days my life is so full of really good things. My daughter and her boyfriend have returned to NZ after living in Australia for a couple of years. It was awesome yesterday when my children and I were having an email conversation, something that hasn't happened before. It is so good to have them all in the same city.
I have a job that I am really enjoying albeit only a short time to go. If I am totally honest I am hoping that the project will be ready to move into its next stage when I come home and that I can rejoin it. As I say 'never say never'.

I am surrounded by some really awesome people who are friends, friends of my children and as such friends of mine, friends who I have reconnected with after a long period of time and friends that I am just getting to know. There are some fabulous people in this world who help make up for the nastiness and evil that exists.

Next steps as far as the trip goes is to sort out how I am going to access cash while I am away. I am researching the travel cards which can store several different currencies on them. They seem to be the way to go but there is a huge variance in fees changed between financial institutions and a huge amount of the $$$$. Euros or whatever charged as a commission. It seems that everyone wants a cut of my money and it is annoying that they don't really have to do much to earn it. Still that is life and I guess it is just a case of sucking it up.

I wait and I wait and before I know it .......

2010-08-13T08:19:00.001+12:00

Contrary to what I wrote in my last post, the trip wasn't finalised. How naieve for me to think that it would be.

To the horror of Trish, my travel consultant I decided that it would be best to come home earlier. My Eurail pass would expire on or around the 6th December so why not make the trip an even 3 months. Leave Wellington on 9th September (no change there) but come home exactly 3 months later. This time I travel through Hong Kong and funnily enough it will be $200 cheaper. Win win I say.

I was beginning to stress about the cost of all this especially as I have no money, will have no job past 3rd September and will be going on this holiday on 'credit'.

Since my mother died at the very young age of 52 I've always said that life is too short and we have to seize the moments when we can. That if we want things enough we will make them happen. This trip is no different in that I have for a very long time, wanted to walk the Camino and decided to put a stake in the ground and just do it. The trouble is that the scope of the trip had tripled and the income has not kept pace. I am fine with this and will take responsibility for whatever consequence(s) arise. As so many people have said to me I can relive the dreams and the experiences if/when I am sitting in a cold flat huddled up in a blanket in my dotage. What I wouldn't be able to do would be to relive something that I never got around to doing and the last thing I want is to be on my death bed saying "I wish I had....." My mother had her independence, her freedom and enough money to do what she wanted to do. What she didn't have was her health. That will not be me.

Anyway enough sobering stuff, the decision to stay in Europe has been made. I will be organised until Barcelona after which time I will use the Eurail pass to travel to countries that I have only read about or seen on TV and movies. I will have a sort of plan in my mind but nothing concrete. I know the countries that I want to visit and the sort of things I want to do there.
I am scared. Scared of being on my own in strange countries - but that is nothing new. I found my way around Cairo, Kathmandu and HoChiMin city. This time however I won't have the security of a pending tour to look forward to to provide navigation, accommodation and translation services. The time I have previously spent on my own has always been for a 'few' days and my accommodation has always been pre-arranged. This time I am it. I have to be totally self sufficient which scares the begeebus out of me. The other side of this however is that I will experience a freedom that I can only begin to imagine. I'll be 'somewhere' in the world with few constraints, able to do what I want, when I want. No rushing home to go to work. No having to work to pay the bills - that will waiting for me when I get back so my goal is to push that into the recesses of my mind until I have to deal with it. Just the world (or at least Europe, stretched out before me waiting for an introduction. I am excited about the places that I will see, the people who I will meet and the things that I will do. It is a bit like having a blank canvas in front of me waiting for me to create a masterpiece. The canvas is Europe and the masterpiece is my life. What greater opportunity is there?

All booked. It is now official. I am on my way :-)

2010-07-31T08:54:00.001+12:00

Wellington-Auckland-Bangkok-Frankfurt-Bilbao // Munich-Tokyo-Auckland-Wellington phew!
Sounds tiring.
What a way to see the world though. It is such a shame that I can't spend time in all of the cities I stop at but I am sure that I will make up for that during my travels across, within and around Europe.

I just read the introduction to the book by Joyce Rupp, Walk in a Relaxed Manner - Life lessons from the Camino and I feel so lucky and privileged to have this opportunity to walk the Camino albeit not as a pilgrimage as such across the whole distance. I think of all the people who would love or value an experience such as this and don't for a variety of reasons from lack of finances to lack of confidence. I sometimes forget that I am lucky to have been born with the potential to develop the ability to obtain the means to do this and to learn from the many life experiences that have made me who I am today, which in turn has enabled me to set in motion this journey.

I am really looking forward to reading this book as, from the brief introduction that I have read so far seems to be written from the heart and promises to give me, not only a first hand description of the sorts of things I have to look forward to but also an insight into the 'life changing experiences' I have may encounter. Joyce and her friend travelled the Camino from early September to early October which is exactly the time that I am going to be travelling. I will be interested to read about the challenges that they faced especially those of a physical nature. It will be interesting to see if my challenges are similar in any way to those faced by Joyce and if they do differ greatly because I am going to complete an 'abridged' version of Joyce's pilgrimage.

Anyway enough of the pontificating. My itinerary has been finalised and I leave Wellington NZ on the 9th September 2010 at 10am. From there I travel to Auckland where I board a Lufthansa flight to Bangkok. Form Bangkok I travel to Frankfurt arriving at 6.10am on the 10th September and on to Bilbao arriving at 1.20pm. I am not sure of how long I will be travelling as I have no idea of the time differences etc but one thing I am sure of. It will be a long time.
Luckily I have a few days to recover from jet lag and enjoy the delights of Bilbao before I join the Walker's World trip at 3.30 on the 12th September.

Chapter 3: The saga continues ......

2010-07-08T14:41:00.000+12:00

When planning any holiday the usual things need to be taken into account such as travel, accommodation, budget, how long can I stay away from home etc. This trip is no different but as I have travelled overseas the planning hasn't been too challenging. I've read, and am reading everything I can find about the Camino, talked to anyone who has even heard of the trip, much less actually walked it, enrolled in a "How to walk the Camino" seminar, took Spanish for Travellers classes (sad to say I have forgotten everything I was taught - but thank goodness for CD Roms, car CD players and iPods) - the list goes on.

I knew the when was I going to go - that was easy. In time to meet the Canadian Teacher's Walking Tour on 12th September 2010. That was a start at least.

Over a period of a few weeks I decided that I would join the 15 day Canadian Walking Tour. A friend walked that tour recently and thoroughly enjoyed it - despite getting a stress fracture to in her leg from all the walking.

The tour starts in Bilbao, travels to Roncevales near the French border at the end of the pass through the Pyrenees and crosses the border to St Jean Pied du Port (the point at which I was going to start if I walked the whole Camino). It then goes to Olite, Pamploma, Puente La Reina, San Millan, Burgos, Carrion Los Condes, Leon, Astorga, Villafranca Del Bierzo, Portomarin and finally to Santiago de Compestela. I've added the actual itinerary in a separate post, in case you are interested.

This tour seemed like just what i was looking for. But ..... and there was a huge 'but' hanging over me. It is cheating. It isn't really walking the Camino as such and I really felt as though I was 'cheating'. I know perfectionism again!!!! One day I'll grow out of it I hope.

Any way I emailed Garry who is the 'head guide' and asked his advice. After a lot of emails, I finally decided to walk the last 100km from Portomarin back to Santiago to arrive in time for the pilgrim's mass. Whilst not being the 'real' Camino it was an ideal compromise and taking into account the following, seemed sensible.
i) I am an 'older' woman travelling on my own,
ii) I don't really speak the language and most importantly
iii) 2010 is a holy year (because the 25th July which happens to be St James' birthday (and my ex-husband's but that's where the similarity ends) is on a Sunday) and the numbers walking the pilgrimage is expected to increase by upwards of 100,000. This would stretch the accommodation and there would be no guarantee of a bed at the end of a long walk.
If I still want to walk the whole 800 Kms at the end of this I will come back and do so a lot wiser and a lot more confident.

After email discussions with Garry I decided to go to Finisterre - by TAXI or Bus. Why? Because I can.

Cape Finisterre is the final destination for many pilgrims on the Way of St. James, the pilgrimage to the shrine of the apostle Saint James the Great in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Cape Finisterre is about a 90-km walk from Santiago de Compostela. It is a recent tradition for pilgrims to burn their clothes or boots at the end of their journey at Cape Finisterre.

The origin of the pilgrimage to Finisterre is not certain. However, it is believed to date from pre-Christian times and was possibly associated with Finisterre's status as the "edge of the world". The tradition continued in medieval times, when "hospitals" were established to cater to pilgrims along the route from Santiago de Compostela to Finisterre. From Wikipedia.

So that was September/Early October taken care of. What next? A colleague at work suggested I take a look at Barcelona. Suggestion was enough so I booked a few days R & R in Barcelona at the end of the Camino to revive, relax and wind down in time to come home. FAMOUS LAST WORDS!

As with any venture of a physical nature such as this a certain amount of training is required. The last thing anyone wants is to get part way into the trip to have to body pack up. So I was imbibing in the requisite exercise to prepare the body and I had a thought. Hold that thought for a while though please......

To follow on from the comment about training and preparing the body for the torment and stress to come I got it into my head to walk a marathon in preparation. Well actually a very dear friend Amy-Jane was going to run the Rotorua Marathon and she suggested that it would be good training. On the face of it I would have to agree. I certainly didn't think that way at the 39km mark when the body was knackered and all I wanted was to be put out of my misery. I'd walked the Round the Bays half marathon a few weeks prior - again at the suggestion of a friend (Jo) - when will I stop listening to other people I ask you? So after a zillion training kilometers walked between my home in Tawa and work in the city (and several variations in between) I am proud to report that I managed to walk the marathon in 5 hours 52 mins. That was it I knew I could walk 42.2 km in under 6 hours so I was set for the Camino. One more thing checked off the list. sadly I haven't kept up the training as much as I would have liked - it just won't stop raining in Wellington and when it does there are always other things to do :-) ) Oh and Amy-Jane ran the marathon in under 4 hours.

Anyway back to my thought. It was about this time that I first questioned the need to come home.

I'd booked the travel, re booked the travel and even re booked the travel. I'd talk to someone who would offer suggestion as to something that would be good to do and off I go. I could do that. Before I knew it I had progressed to asking myself how I could make the most of the travel to Europe and stay a bit longer. I rationalised that I'm not too old to have an O.E.! ( Sadly when I was younger, O.E's weren't even invented. Heck it was a big deal just going to Australia). Maybe I could stay away from home for a couple of months. But then if I was going to stay away for 2 months why not make it 3? Why not make it 4 even? Hell why come home at all? Sadly the European authorities don't see it my way so I had to at least consider coming home. Consideration to the point that I had to have a return ticket to good old Wellington New Zealand. That, however was a decision that could wait so I soldiered on with my planning.

Realistically there was no pressing reason to return to NZ after a month. I was about to take up a 3 month contract that would end in late August/early September so no job to come home to. If I could save some money why not stay in Europe and 'have a look around'? Heck why save money, why not just use the credit card. Made sense to me. Being the philosophical person that I am I decided to let the universe decide my fate (a euphemism for I can't make a decision and want to procrastinate for a bit longer) and that what would be would be.

I talked to anyone who would listen. Took advice & guidance from friends, colleagues, the person at the station who was talking about travel - well not quite - listened to experiences, suggestions and surfed the Internet. Confusion bred uncertainty. Procrastination became my middle name and I toyed with all sorts of scenarios. I got to the point where I decided that it would be too cold in Europe - after all it was coming into winter - so I'd go to South America. I'd always wanted to walk the Inca Trail. Happily I thought through that reasoning - and before I could alienate my travel agent/advisor Trish any more I made some decisions. I decided to purchase a global Eurail pass which will give me access to 24 countries over a period of 2 months. I decided to come home on the 15th of December and to leave from Munich. All I HAD to do from 6th October to 15th December was to get to Munich to catch a plane home. Everything in between was my choice and could be planned if I want to or be purely spur of the moment decisions. Ahhhhhhhh what Freedom. I can only imagine how that will be. It will be interesting to see if the reality is as good as I am imagining it to be.

Appendix 1: The Tour Itineray

2010-07-08T13:49:00.000+12:00

WALKERS’ WORLD

Camino de Santiago (St James Way)

Guided walk across Northern Spain

15 night Itinerary:

Day 1 - Meet at the Barcelo Nervion Hotel in central Bilbao at 3.30 pm. Transfer by private coach to our first hotel at Roncesvalles. This is a quiet hamlet near the French border at the end of the pass through the Pyrenees and it is where medieval pilgrims arrived into Spain en route to Santiago. Roncesvalles is filled with history. Legend says that Charlemagne’s army (led by his nephew Roland) was defeated here in 778 and the battle was immortalized in the medieval epic poem "La Chanson de Roland". We stay at a lovely Posada near the "Collegiata" which is a beautiful old monastery/museum in a tranquil mountain setting. Dinner included. Roncesvalles is known for its wonderful fresh trout from the mountain streams. RONCESVALLES

Day 2 - Today we cross the border to the lively French village of St Jean-Pied-du-Port. After a chance for a cafe-au-lait and perhaps to buy a pilgrim's walking stick we are taken by mini-bus up into the Pyrenees and from here we trace the ancient pilgrim's route along a beautiful mountain ridge. On a clear day the views are spectacular with snow-capped peaks in the distance. In medieval times this route was considered safer than the low road where ambushes by robbers were frequent. Although it is high in the mountains, the trail is easy walking with only a few short ascents. The walk ends at Roncesvalles where we spend the night again in the Posada. Before dinner we visit the Collegiata whose construction is thought to have begun in the 900's. The museum contains artifacts and paintings associated with many legends and historic tales including the tomb of King Sancho El Fuerte whose broken chains are still part of the symbol of the region of Navarre. Dinner at the Posada included. RONCESVALLES

Day 3 - On today's walk we have a gradual descent through forests and villages of the Navarre Region including the village of Burquete which Hemingway wrote about in his novel "The Sun Also Rises". It is picturesque, quiet, mountain country and the walking easy. We continue by bus through Pamplona (if time permits we stop for a quick visit to the old city) and continue by bus to the medieval village of Olite, just south of Pamplona where we stay at the spectacular Parador of Olite - an amazing hotel which is part of an old castle complete with turrets. Walls are hung with antique tapestries and it is not hard to be transported in one's imagination to medieval times. In spite of being in an old castle, the rooms are luxurious. OLITE

Day 4 - Today we walk from just outside Pamplona. The trail is through rolling countryside to the village of Puente la Reina where we stay in a small hotel located on a narrow, cobble-stoned street. This street is still part of the pilgrim's path as it has been for a thousand years. At the end of the street we see the Puente La Reina (Queen's Bridge) which was built in medieval times for the pilgrims and is still used today. Dinner in the inn's dining room which has been converted from an old wine cellar.

PUENTE LA REINA
Day 5 - Our walk is through gentle countryside filled with vineyards and tranquil villages of the La Rioja wine district. La Rioja wine is the most famous in Spain but the region is also known for its white asparagus and its fruit. The walk ends at the interesting town of Estella which sits astride a craggy bend in a rushing river. We stay at a beautiful, four-star hotel inside the remote, four-hundred year old Monasterio del Yuso. There are many legends associated with this monastery - it is said that the oldest books written in the Spanish language (Castilian) were found in its library. The secluded setting is exquisite surrounded by wild green hills. Dinner included. SAN MILLAN

Day 6 - Today our walk starts near the medieval town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada and we continue towards Belorado. The trail winds through gentle rolling hills and tiny villages. At the end of our walk we continue by bus into the fairy-tale city of Burgos where the castle, palaces and monasteries reveal the city’s past grandeur. In medieval times Burgos was the most significant stopping place for pilgrims and today it contains a staggering wealth of art. This was the birth place of Spain’s legendary hero El Cid who, in 1094, fought with Christian forces against the Moors and his body lies in the magnificent cathedral (the second largest in Spain)We spend the night at the Hotel Meson del Cid which faces onto the cathedral plaza in the historic quarter of the city. A former convent, this historic hotel faces the Cathedral and it was once home to the first printing press in Spain. BURGOS

Day 7 - Our walking tour in Burgos is led by a local guide who is an expert in the history of the city. The tour includes the great, gothic Cathedral (a UNESCO World Heritage site) and we hear stories of El Cid and how he tricked local money-lenders into lending him money to finance his troops. We visit the Monasterio de Las Huelgas which, founded in 1187, is one of the most important monuments in Spain. The remainder of the day is free to explore Burgos which is one of Iberia's most beautiful cities with a lovely tree-lined walkway along its river. Perhaps you would like to shop, sit in a cafe or sample typical Spanish snacks called "Pinchos" . We stay again at the Meson del Cid. September is street festival time in Burgos and in the evening streets are filled with various musical and dance entertainment from guitar to flamenco to folk to comic puppet shows. BURGOS

Day 8 - After a short bus ride we reach our starting point on the Camino. From here we walk through the golden meseta of Castile with its great plains and vistas and along the way we picnic at the site of an old monastery. Our walk ends at a small village with a ruined castle on a hill above it and those who still feel energetic can climb to the castle for a wonderful view of the countryside. At the end of the day there is a reward - we stay at a wonderful hotel within the historic San Zoilo monastery located at the edge of the town of Carrion de los Condes. In the 11th century the town was home to villainous Counts. Two of these Counts (according to legend) married and mistreated El Cid's daughters. Be sure to visit the beautiful cloister before dinner. CARRION DE LOS CONDES

Day 9 - Our walk is again on the plains. On a clear day mountains are visible in the distance but this part of Camino de Santiago follows an ancient Roman road with flat, easy walking. The breeze ripples fields of grain as we walk alongside a small river. We end at the town of Villacazar which, in the 1200's, belonged to the Knights Templar who battled the Muslims, defended holy places and patrolled the Camino protecting pilgrims from bandits and thieves. There is a fascinating Templar church called the "Church of the White Virgin" which is associated with many legends and miracles. From here, late in the day, we go by bus into Leon, a remarkable city of soaring stone. Our Posada hotel is in the historic centre. LEON

Day 10 - In the morning we walk to explore the old quarter of Leon - the magnificent Cathedral with its remarkable stained glass windows preserved from the 13th century, the Basilica de San Isidoro with its Pantheon of Kings and fascinating artifacts from the days of medieval pilgrimage. The Plaza de San Marcelo is the site of the 16th Palace of Los Guzmanes with its balconies and courtyard and the Casa de Botines, a 19th century work by the famous Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi. The afternoon and evening are free. This is a great place to experience a long Spanish lunch - lunch is the main meal in Spain and shops close from about 2 - 4 (or sometimes 5 pm). LEON

Day 11 - In the morning we drive from Leon to start our walk at Orbigo. It was here, on the bridge at Orbigo, in 1434 that a knight, Suero, held what may have held the last great medieval tournament. Suero challenged other knights to a joust because he had been scorned by his lady love. Today if you stand on the bridge and use a little imagination you can almost hear the horses whinny and the clash of steel. Suero won the tournament which released him from his prison of love and one can still see his gold bracelet in the museum at Santiago.

At Orbigo the terrain changes from flat plains to gentle foothills - the clouds soon reveal themselves to be chains of mountains - the Leon Mountains to the West and the Cordillera Cantabrica to the North. Astorga's attractions include a Cathedral built in 1471, a fairytale Bishop's Palace built by the eccentric architect Antoni Gaudi which now holds an interesting "Museum of the Camino", a baroque Town Hall, Roman ruins and a Museum of Chocolate which tells the tale of a local chocolate industry that flourished when cocoa was first brought from the New World by Columbus. Chocolate shops abound. Our hotel faces onto the plaza overlooking the Gaudi palace and the cathedral. Dinner included. ASTORGA

Day 12 - Beyond Astorga we begin one of the most historically important parts of the Camino (and the most difficult) over Mount Irago. Our bus takes us up to near the top ( those who feel more energetic can start earlier) to the Cruz de Ferro (iron cross) under which pilgrims often place a stone which they have been carrying as penance (a tradition that has been continued from the 11th century). The terrain is bleak and rugged but with lovely views and in spring the mountains are covered with wildflowers. From the top we descend into the lush "Bierzo" valley region to a tiny village of El Aceibo which appears to be lost in a medieval time-warp. We then continue to the beautiful town of Molinaseca with its Roman bridge. Distances range from 10 km to 21 km depending on which starting point you choose. The walk continues gradually downhill to the town of Molinaseca where walkers stop and dabble their feet in the lovely stream, reward themselves with a beer in a quaint cafe and browse through the narrow streets. At the end of the day we return to Astorga. Dinner included. ASTORGA

Day 13 - From Villafranca we have a short bus ride up the Cebreiro pass. At remote O Cebreiro, a mysterious legend says that the Holy Grail ( the cup from which Christ drank at the Last Supper) is hidden and many miracles are said to have taken place. Low, oval stone houses called "pallozas" here are remnants of Celtic times. This is one of the most scenic stretches of the Camino (although the weather can be unpredictable). Terrain is wild and rugged but we start our walk near the top and make a gradual descent. (The more energetic walkers start sooner). As we descend, the countryside becomes more gentle. We are now in Galicia where gray and green tones predominate and one hears the "Gallego" language (the local dialect). Villages are strung along the Camino - sometimes just a few houses surrounding a stone church. Fields are fenced with stone and brambles and one sees the ruins of castles that once protected pilgrims. By mid afternoon we reach the quaint town of Triacastela for lunch at a small restaurant. At the end of the day we are transferred to the village of Portomarin which is our base for the next two nights. We stay at the lovely Pousada de Portomarin which has beautiful views of a lake and green hills. The town is known for its "queimadas" (a flaming liqueur with sugar, lemon and coffee beans). Dinner included. PORTOMARIN

Day 14 - Today we travel by bus to Samos with its majestic monastery which was founded in the 6th century. The monastery is filled with art treasures and has a large cloister with interesting carved keystones - most depict religious themes related to the Benedictines but one has an amusing hieroglyphic which says, "What are you looking at, stupid?" (Monks walking the cloister were not supposed to be gazing at the ceiling.) A large library and some of the monastery were destroyed by fire in 1951 when the monks' still being used to make liqueur exploded!

Our hike today is on a tranquil, hamlet-laden trail through gently rolling countryside - the most beautiful section of our entire journey across Northern Spain. (For those who want a less strenuous walk the distance can be shortened.) The trail winds alongside jewel-like green fields and between stone fences covered with blackberries and wild-flowers. Occasionally walkers must stop as a farmer herds his cows into a field. One sees "horreos" (graneries), stone mills and crosses marking the way. Sometimes it seems that time has forgotten this corner of rural Spain. In the evening our bus takes us back to the Pousada at Portomarin. Dinner included. PORTOMARIN

Day 15 - We walk continues through Galicia and then we continue by bus towards Santiago. Those who want to walk the last historic bit into Santiago can do this although we warn you that it goes through some industrial and modern sections. This section starts at "Mount of Joy" where pilgrims first caught a glimpse of Santiago Cathedral’s bell towers. Tradition says that the first one of a group to arrive at the top was nicknamed Leroy (The King). Pilgrims also stopped to wash at Lavacolla (probably the first time in months since in the 1100's soap and water were considered unhealthy). It is a tradition that all pilgrims head for the Cathedral on arrival and hug the statue of St James. Our hotel is an 18th century former Jesuit residence located in the old quarter near the Cathedral. It surrounds a lovely garden courtyard. In the evening we have a farewell dinner. SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

Day 16 - Our tour ends after breakfast. If you want to stay for another day or two to explore Santiago's historic sites, extra hotel nights can be arranged. Those who wish can attend the Pilgrims' mass at the Cathedral at midday. The Cathedral has audio-guides in English which tell you about the history and the art. Adjacent to the Cathedral is a Museum of the Pilgrims. There is a local bus you can take to Finisterre or it is fascinating just to wander Santiago's narrow medieval streets filled with shops and cafes. The region is known for its great seafood and local cheeses.

Chapter 1: My dream

2010-05-29T10:42:00.000+12:00

Several years ago I read a book by Shirley MacLaine called the Camino and I was 'hooked'. By the time I'd finished the book I knew that I was going to walk the Camino. The details were yet to be decided; the how, the when or the can I do it will, and in some cases, are yet to be defined but I knew that walking the Camino was in my future somewhere.

I was out training last week and as I was walking the 17 kilometres to work I was planning what I was going to do while walking the Camino. Writing a blog and recording my thoughts, impressions and feelings was always in my plan and as I was thinking about this I thought why wait until I am in Spain to begin to write a blog. Find out how to do it now and start the blog from now. Include the preparation, the anxieties, the training traumas and the logistics of going on this trip. so here goes.......

After reading Shirley MacLaine's book way back then, I devoured everything i could find about the Camino. In those days it wasn't as well known as it is now and I spent a lot of time on web browsers and internet book ordering sites, trying to find information that would help me define my dream as well as enable me to vicariously 'feel' the experience that I sought.

I planned the 'how' in my mind. I debated the pros and cons often with the mental debate and insecurities rolling around in my sub-conscious. There were a lot of negatives and what-ifs that could derail my plan or stop me reaching the start line if I allowed them to take hold.

I read the book The Year they Seized the Day by Elizabeth Best & Colin Bowles and rather than putting me off it re awoke the excitement and anticipation of walking the Camino in the footsteps of greats like St Francis of Assisi and Charlemagne. I read of the hardships faced by the authors; of having blisters that resembled the rhubarb and custard that we took to school for lunch, of not getting to accommodation before everyone else and having to sleep on the floor somewhere and the emotional challenges that they faced and wanted to 'sign-up' to go then and there.

Reality prevailed though and i had to take a step back and assess my commitment, my readiness to do this - both mentally and physically and my personal situation; financially and work commitments.

I procrastinated for several years.

I decided to walk the Camino before I turned 50. The years came and went but the time was never right. Oh well I decided to walk it to commemmorate my 50th birthday. After all I'd run a marathon for my 30th and got a tattoo for my 40th so it seemed right that I walk the Camino for my 50th.
My 50th birthday came and went and I wasn't ready. I didn't have enough money so the time wasn't right so 'I'd do it for my 51st birthday'.
My 51st birthday came and went. I'd just started a new contract so couldn't take a month off work. I'll wait until next year.

I knew that if I didn't do something soon I'd be too old, too unfit, too unfinancially sound, too infirm, too scared, too 'something' so 3 weeks ago I put a stake in the ground and made inquiries. My mother died from breast cancer aged 52 and my father wasn't much older when he died so I wasn't going to 'die' before I walked the Camino and that is still very much the plan.

I did my research, looked at my options and made some decisions.
More about that tomorrow :-)

Chapter 2: It is now the end of May 2010

2010-05-29T09:31:00.000+12:00

and so much for writing each day since 6th Feb. I guess that it is yet another case of life catching up with me and a general lack of motivation and/or discipline to continue my story.

The past 4 months have been interesting in the least. Not only have we had family dramas to contend with - don't we all? - but the trip has been booked and the planning has moved on to the finer details, I reached the momentous age of 52, the age that neither of my parents reached, the training plan has been initiated and the first major deliverable achieved.

February saw the booking of a Teacher's Walker's World Canada 15 day trip to walk the Camino. I know that seems strange that a non teacher from Wellington New Zealand would book a trip with a Canadian walking tour but as I said earlier, by nature of the fact that the Camino is a Pilgrimage and by virtue of its genre; designed to be walked in its entirety over a period of 'as long as it takes' and provides a time of reflection, soul searching and adventure, there aren't a lot of 'tours' to walk the Camino. Discussions with a colleague from Auckland who had recently walked this walk with this group sowed the seed of possibility in my mind and I made the necessary inquiries.

My original intention was to take the path of true pilgrimage but fear, apprehension and sensibility prevailed. I am a 'middle aged' woman, travelling on her own, in a country where I don't speak the language and it is a holy year. Not only would I have the mental and physical obstacles that I have only read about I would be throwing the possibility of lack of accommodation into the mix, a situation that I don't feel ready to deal with yet. After all if I liked this trip and still wanted to walk the 'real' Camino I could go back. I am young at heart, fit and healthy and love a challenge.

So I swallowed my pride, allowed my ego to shrink back to a place where it wouldn't matter if I didn't do the Camino 'right' and booked the trip. Having placed a stake in the ground and determined a destination that I had to reach, by a defined date I could start to plan.

One of the draw cards to walking the Camino however is working towards filling the stamps of the passport (see photos on blog) which is the credential or pass which allows the use of overnight accommodation in Refugio's. Also known as the Pilgrim's passport, the credential is stamped with the official stamp of each Refugio at which the pilgrim stays, and other places, such as bars or churches, will also stamp credentials. At the end of the pilgrimage, the credential provides the pilgrim with a complete record of where he or she has been. To qualify for this passport it is necessary to complete at least 100 kms of the Camino.
With this in mind I contacted the trip's guide (Garry) and organised to be taken back to the 100km mark and walk back to Santiago de Compestela to earn the right to the passport. (Who says that I am 'reward driven'?)

So I now leave Wellington on the 10th September 2010. My dream is on its way to being realised.